NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 60.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 60.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.817 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 65 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Across The Universe (5.10)
Across The Universe
IMCS guide Zeb Jakub, looking pretty relaxed
Photo by Mat Peer
Directions:  Walk 50' right of Time Traveler to the upper right of a slab capped by an 8 overlap. Old slings wrapped around a tree trunk mark the start.
Description: After 5 prior attempts, placing all the bolts by hand, Todd Swain, Mike Cody and Dick Peterson made the first ascent of what is possibly the best climb on the slabs. Highly recommended with great rock and almost completely fixed protection. Combining this with End Of The Universe provides 9 pitches of excellent climbing (4 great 5.10 pitches) on generally good rock and takes you all the way to the top of the cliff just right of the scenic overlook.
    Pitch 1: Climb a thin crack to a pothole and continue up a white streak past a bolt and a dowel to a 3-bolt belay beneath the overlap. 90', 5.9

    Pitch 2: Move up to a white overlap, climbing it on the right past two pitons and a bolt (5.10-) to a flake and a 2-bolt belay. 140', 5.10-

    Pitch 3: Same as Ursa Major: climb straight up a lower-angle face (poor protection) to a bolt belay on the left. 160', 5.5

    Pitch 4: Move easily right. 3-bolt belay above bushes. 50', 5.2

    Pitch 5: The Milky Way pitch: climb up the steepening white streak past 5 bolts and a left facing flake (pin) to a 2-bolt belay. 160', 5.9-

    Pitch 6: Rappel from here with 2 ropes, climb straight up to the tree ledge or traverse right to a dike (bolt) and up to the woods. 70', 5.5R

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel with 2 ropes or finish on an upper route
History:  August 30,1982 - Todd Swain, Mike Cody, Dick Peterson


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