NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:00p on 07/17/19 - Temperature: 80.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 80.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.708 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 100 %
BugCON 5: climbers AND belayers require mosquito net & DEET for survival
5 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / 6,000 Salad Bowls (5.8)
Directions:  From the bottom of Standard Route, walk right 60 to the base of a clean slab below the left end of a large overlap.
Description: Besides Standard Route, this is the only other full length climb up Mt. Willard, and although a wandering line (beginning near the base of Time Traveler and ending with the upper white streak of Star Trek) it was apparently the first route up the main friction slabs. Several old pins were found on the slabs during the FA.
    Pitch 1: Climb a layback flake up the slab to a right-facing corner. At 50 the corner jogs horizontally right hast a 3/8 bolt. At the bolt diagonal left on 5.8 friction to a bush and continue up and left to a tree ledge. 130, 5.8

    Pitch 2: Move up and right along a weakness across friction slabs to a small belay stance at an old piton and a flake. 70, 5.5

    Pitch 3: Follow the natural scoop down and right, then back diagonally right to an broken area. 150, 5.5

    Pitch 4: Move up to a bush clump, traverse right to another clump, then head up to a shaky belay on a small ledge. 140, 5.4

    Pitch 5: Climb straight up a dike (2 bolts) on a clean white slab (as for Star Trek). Belay on a ledge on the right with trees.

    Pitch 6: Take the easiest line to the central tree ledge. Diagonal left to a prominent right facing corner on the upper face.

    Pitch 7: Climb the large right-facing corner to a birch, then move left up an offwidth or squeeze chimney. Belay at trees on the ledge up above. 120, 5.6

    Pitch 8: Avoid loose rocks by stepping left off of a rotten tree. Move up clean cracks, diagonal left, and belay on top of an exposed flake at its apex. 120, 5.6

Gear: standard rack
Descent: Climb rotten rock to the top. 150
History:  July 23,1973 - Jeff Pheasant, Andy Middleton, Al Rubin


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