NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Time Traveler (5.8)
Directions:  Begin 7' right of Standard Route on a bushy ledge on the bottom left side of a slab leading up to a prominent overlap. Directly above is a distinctive right-facing corner starting 4í up a steep wall.
Description: This is perhaps the most logical line up the open friction slabs to the right of Standard Route. While the crux Is well protected, there are runouts on moderate slabs.
    Pitch 1: Climb a layback flake up the slab to a right-facing corner. At 50í the corner jogs horizontally right past a 3/8î bolt. Continue to a belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor under the overlap. 130', 5.7

    Pitch 2: Diagonal left 40í beneath the overlap and friction straight up past a bolt and peg to a sloping belay at a flake (old piton). 140', 5.6

    Pitch 3: Move right, then face climb straight up a thin white streak on good rock (5.7) past several bolts. Step over a small overlap (5.8) and continue to a belay ledge 30í higher on the right with a 2-bolt anchor. 170', 5.8

    Pitch 4: Traverse right to a prominent arching corner and follow it (same as Ursa Major) to the tree covered ledge. 150', 5.5

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel or do another route to the top
History:  September 1980 - Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude

 

NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
International Mountain Equipment
The Cranmore Mountain Lodge
the American Alpine Club
Mooney Mountain Guides
International Mountain Climbing School
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Friends Of The Ledges
Bagels Plus
Savage Mountain Gear
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List