NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 60.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 60.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.817 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 65 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Whitehorse Ledge / Sea Of Holes (5.7)
Directions:  On the left side of the slabs, look for an obvious white streak left of Stadmuller-Griffin and below the right side of an overlap, about 100' up.
Description: Great friction climbing on high quality rock. Though moderate in grade, it has the spice that comes from the Whitehorse slab climbing style.
    Pitch 1: Climb directly up the easy slab for a full rope-length to a stance with a 2-bolt anchor. (5.2)

    Pitch 2: Continue up the slab past a pin heading for the right side of the obvious overlap. At the natural thread step up and continue up the slab to the right side of the next overlap. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor. (5.5)

    Pitch 3: Step left to the flake and follow the groove to the left side of the Wedge Buttress. Pull over the arch on the holes and continue up (left or right) to the small ledge and another 2-bolt anchor. (5.5)

    Pitch 4: Step left to the white corner and layback it to the slab. Continue up the slab to a left-facing corner and bulge. Climb the bulge (5.7) to the arch on the Darcy-Crowther route. Climb up the arch and traverse right to the tree ledge. Step back left across a mossy slab to a pine tree belay. (5.7)

Gear: standard rack and 2 ropes
Descent: rappel the route in 4 raps with double ropes
History:  October 21,1985 - Ed Webster, Alain Comeau


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