NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:59a on 07/05/22 - Temperature: 55.4 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 55.4 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.974 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 62 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mount Washington / The Balalayka Variation (5.10c)
Directions:  Located on Pinnacle Buttress in Huntington Ravine.
Description: An alternative variation to the first 2 pitches of "Pinnacle Direct Direct" (5.9).
    Pitch 1: Start the line 15 feet to the right of the original start (old tree), then follow an obvious crack to an overhang, and then turn left to the first bolt. Next, climb through an overhang, to a flake/block (use extreme caution) and a small roof/visor, with the second bolt below it.. Mantle the visor, and climb up and to the right to a 1 in. crack. Then, pull over the lip to a sloping ledge with a good placement for a belay station. (70')

Gear: Standard rack and gear up to 1 in.
Descent: rappel the route
History:  August 21,2004 - Vasya Vorotnikov, Aleksey Shuruyev

 

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