NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:00a on 07/02/22 - Temperature: 68.4 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 68.4 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.692 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 46 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mount Washington / Shuruyev-Mirkina-Dynkin Route (summer variation) (A2 (5.9))
Shuruyev-Mirkina-Dynkin Route (summer variation)
Aleksey Shuruyev pulling over the lip.
Photo by Sergei Matusevich
Directions:  Start 20 feet to the right from the bottom of Pinnacle Gulley Waterfall.
Description: no description available
    Pitch 1: Start 20 feet to the right from the bottom of Pinnacle Gulley Waterfall, and climb on easy terrain up and parallel to the waterfall to an obvious 2 in. crack. (5.9, 10 feet)

    Pitch 2: Climb up and to the left to the obvious overhang above the stream. (150 ft. 5.5)

    Pitch 3: Start up the overhanging crack, and right away, traverse onto the small, tight flake that goes to the left. Follow the flake until it ends, and do an A1 mantle move over the edge, onto a slab and climb to the second overhang. (60 ft. 5.10 A1)

    Pitch 4: Aid the crack (can be done free as a hard 5.12),pull over the edge, and continue up the crack to the 3rd small overhang. (50 ft. 5.9 A1)

    Pitch 5: Climb the overhang and continue up the crack to the ridge of "Pinnacle Direct Direct" Pitch six: finish "Pinnacle Direct Direct". (50 ft. 5.9)

Gear: standard aid rack
History:  September 4,2004 - Aleksey Shuruyev, Katya Vorotnikova, Sergei Motusevich, Dimitry Shirokov


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