NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:59a on 07/05/22 - Temperature: 55.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 55.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.973 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 63 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mount Washington / Katyusha (WI 3 A3 5.6 R III)
Directions:  Starts after the first 2 pitches of the normal Pinnacle Buttress route.
Description: Aleksey Shuruyev, Alex Masnev and Simon Genzer tried it first in November 2002. The try ended after Shuruyev took a fifteen footer. March 1, 2003 came back with Olga Mitkina. They climbed the overhang but could not make it over the edge because of icy rock, so they fixed a line with fifteen pieces of gear and went home. The next week, March 8, Shuruyev came back with Ilya Tatar and Katya Vorotnikova. They found nine pieces on the wall instead of fifteen. The rest was "Gone with the wind" including even solid pitons. Big thanks to the "wind" for leaving the rope and other gear! After finishing the route, Ilya and Aleksey decided to name the route after Katya a wonderful woman, the mother of three children, a great climber, scientist, pianist and gymnast to name a few of her talents. For those who don't know, March 8th is International Woman's Day.
    Pitch 1: Climb the first two pitches and about 40 ft. of Pinnacle Gully. Climb the 25 foot overhang to the left by following a thin crack, which leads to a flake. Pull over the edge on a slab and climb the crack systems to the top of Pinnacle Buttress.

Gear: ice gear and aid rack
History:  March 8,2003 - Aleksey Shuruyev, Ilya Tatar, Katya Vorotnikova


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