NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:00a on 07/02/22 - Temperature: 68.4 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 68.4 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.692 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 46 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mount Washington / Cloud Walkers (plus direct finish) (5.7)
Directions:  Start about 50-100' left of the base of the slabs at the base of Central Gully, below an obvious dihedral with a clean left wall.
Description: A superb rock climb. The direct finish is a totally obvious crack through a small roof straight above the first belay.
    Pitch 1: Diagonal up left about 30' on good holds to a small ledge and make a short traverse back right to the obvious finger crack. Follow the sustained finger crack (5.7, TCUs and Tricams) past one small ledge to a better ledge with a tricky gear belay and maybe a junky piton. (120')

    Pitch 2: Work straight up off the belay to a hand-fist crack that splits a small roof (5.7) and follow it to the top (gear to 3"). (60') Gear belay way back in the scrub, or you can sling the very top of the climb, which forms a large spike.

Gear: standard rock rack
Descent: Wretched bushwhack to the Alpine Garden, or with two ropes you might be able to leave a long sling or cordelette and rap from the spike at the top of the climb.
History:  August 23,1987 - Bill Boyle, Al Stebbins, Pat Stebbins did the FA. In his guidebook Ed Webster gave Paul Cormier and partner credit for the FA of the direct finish on August 25, 1995. However, Ben Townsend and his wife Dorcas Miller had done it earlier the same summer.


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