NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:00a on 07/02/22 - Temperature: 66.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 66.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.689 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 54 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / The Underground (5.11d)
Directions:  Ten feet right of the start of Diedre, locate bolts protecting moves up right slanting groove and into right facing corner.
Description: Direct start to Deleightmaker's pitch 1 bolt ladder. All pitches free climbed individually as they were cleaned from fall 2004 through summer 2005 by Bayard Russell and Ray Rice. Pitch two's bolts were drilled by hand, on lead from aiders.
    Pitch 1: Scramble up to first bolt and follow corner/groove to top of p.1 of Deleightmaker. Crux at first bolt, 5.11, and again at top of corner. 5.11c

    Pitch 2: Climb right-hand dihedral, crux, past one bolt and fiddley nut protection. Traverse right at horizontal to join Karen's variation and an obvious belay ledge on right. 5.11d

    Pitch 3: Traverse right off belay ledge towards two bolts at start of right leaning groove/crack. Climb to right side of Blueberry Terrace. 5.11b

    Pitch 4: Directly above pitch 3, off right side of Blueberry Terrace, scramble up to shallow dihedral, small RP, 5.8+, linking features, past fixed pin, toward arete fifteen feet right of Kinesis. Bolt at crux on dark arete. Joins last few feet of Kinesis to its anchor. 5.11c

    Pitch 5: Scramble straight up to the woods.

Gear: Small cams to #1 Camalot size, extra small cams, nuts including small RP type.
Descent: Walk off or rappel with 2 ropes.
History:  July 7,2006 - FA - Dana Drummond and Bayard Russell


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