NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:30a on 07/02/22 - Temperature: 67.6 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 67.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.684 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 49 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / The Book Of Solemnity (5.9+)
The Book Of Solemnity
Mark Synnott coming around the roof on pitch 1
Photo by
Directions:  Start on the right side of the large tree ledge located in the middle of the left side of the cliff that runs from the Barber Wall to Upper refuse. It is the obvious dihedral just right of Upper Refuse.
Description: Whether this climb is 5.9+ or 5.10a is debatable. What's not is that it is one of the best routes on the cliff!
    Pitch 1: Climb the clean dihedral to the roof past 2 pitons. Edge out the roof (pin) and turn the corner. Climb up 15' and traverse right to a comfortable belay ledge and 2-bolt anchor.

    Pitch 2: Step out left off the belay and into the wonderful upper dihedral. At the small roof, protect high on the right and then make an awkward traverse left, going high or low (5.9+). Balance-step down and then continue up and left into the final section of Upper Refuse, exiting on the right to a 2-bolt belay directly above the roof. With double ropes you can clip one, protecting yourself, while your second can be protected from a potentially dangerous swing.

Gear: Standard rack with medium to small gear. Double ropes make the second pitch significantly safer for the second.
Descent: Finish up Refuse and walk off or rappel from the upper anchors in 2 rappels with 60 meter ropes to the ground. Be careful with your knot going over the ledge as it can easily get caught, providing you with the fun of ascending the rope back near the top to get them unstuck!
History:  October 30,1971 - Joe Cote and Steve Arsenault


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