NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:59p on 06/28/22 - Temperature: 73.4 °F - Wind speed: 3.0 mph - Wind chill: 73.4 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.972 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 18 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Whitehorse Ledge / Atlantis (5.10b)
unknown climber
Photo by Al Hospers
Directions:  Hike the new trail to the South Buttress. Where it comes out at the cliff go to the right about 200' and look up. Atlantis is the huge flake just left of the dark face.
Description: The route follows the giant corner up and under the roof above. If you're feeling good you can jam the finger crack out the roof, or traverse right to a belay on Lost Souls. You can combine pitch 1 and 2.
    Pitch 1: Take a deep breath and climb the giant corner to the niche belay at it's top. 5.9 140'

    Pitch 2: Continue up to the Inferno Ledge. 5.4

    Pitch 3: Climb the thin flake up to a belay at the left side of the huge roof. 5.9 40'

    Pitch 4: Climb the chimney/crack under the roof, hand-traverse right (5.9) and climb the finger crack (5.10b). You can also continue right to the 2 bolt anchor on Lost Souls. If you're going to do the finger crack double ropes are very useful to avoid rope drag. 5.10b 150'

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rap the route or waltz off
History:  September 1976 - Ed Webster, Doug Madara


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