NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:29a on 07/05/22 - Temperature: 53.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 53.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.975 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 66 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Diagonal (WI 5 III)
Diagonal
Jim Ewing
Photo by Mark Givins
Directions:  Start on Standard route.
Description: A very serious climb in a truly spectacular location. Bring both your runout rock and ice climbing skills.
    Pitch 1: Climb the direct start to Standard Route or the normal start up the flake with the step-over to Toe Crack. Continue over to the right and belay atop a large block at a 2-bolt anchor.

    Pitch 2: Climb the runout dike to a 2-bolt anchor just left of the column.

    Pitch 3: Make a desperate move across to the ice and climb the column to the top.

Gear: standard rack and ice gear, double ropes will definitely help.
Descent: walk off from the top of the cliff down the climber's trail
History:  WInter 1978 - Chris Rowins, Tiger Burns

 

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