NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:00a on 07/01/22 - Temperature: 58.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 58.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.990 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 55 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Huntington / Southern Migration (5.9 III)
Directions:  Park at a wide pull off near a Forest Service sign that says ŽNo camping or fires except at campgroundsŪ. This is located just downhill from where the road comes closest to the rock. Walk through the small clearing and look for an opening by a large rock. Go thru the 'enchanted forest' until you see double ribbons on a couple of trees. Follow ribbons right on a faint trail to the base of the wall. Allow about 30 minutes from the road. Start at the very bottom of the slab.
Description: This new climb is located on the right hand side of the Mt. Huntington cliff as seen from near the top of the Kanc. This cliff has been scrutinized by generations of climbers but because of rumors of a heinous approach and terrible rock, has been pretty much ignored. Chuck Woodman put up the 3 pitch 'Once is Enough' a few years back, then teamed up with Jack Dorsey to establish a couple of steep face climbs (still unfinished) to the left, all on good rock. Woodman reached the bottom of 'Migration' years ago and started up the first pitch, but never returned til this fall. By then a rough trail had been established to the base.

While it is true that much of the rock on this extensive cliff is pretty bad, there are good sections, and with 'Migration', we have managed to weave a pretty good line from bottom to top. However, don't expect a Whitehorse quality climb. The climbing is generally on good rock but there is loose stuff around. Get on it for the adventure and the unknown, the length of the climb, and the views, which are unique and exceptional. This is an impressive piece of rock! It's a pretty cool place to be.
    Pitch 1: Scramble up the low angle slab til beneath a steeper bulge. A couple bolts and a small cam lead over bulge (crux, 5.9). Continue past a couple more bolts to a stance and two bolt anchor. 5.9 170'

    Variation: Clip the first two bolts of the regular first pitch, then go left to a flake. Continue up on easy slab to a two bolt anchor left of bushes. Going this way avoids the crux bulge. 5.6 170'

    Pitch 2: Easy slab climbing leads up past a couple bolts. Below bushes, head up and right past a couple overlaps to an anchor below a steep wall. 5.6 180'

    Variation: Continue straight up a clean strip past two bolts, then merge right with regular P2. 5.6 180'

    Pitch 3: Angle left on a slab, then head straight up the steep face. Positive holds, ample protection (including a couple of bolts), and interesting moves make for a spectacular pitch. Near the top of the wall, head right, then claw up 15' of fir branches to a tree anchor. Ignore an orange sling on a tree up and right. Off route. 150' 5.7

    Pitch 4: Walk left 15', then climb up to a broken corner in a steep wall. Continue up past a bolt, make a difficult mantle, then head up and left to a smooth slab. Climb up and left past bolts, then go straight up to a belay next to the trees. 5.7 130'

    Pitch 5: Scramble left along a ramp, then right past a small tree to a bolt in a slab. Continue up past bushes on easy rock til below the final steeper slab. Angle right past a couple bolts to an anchor at the top. 5.7 120'

Gear: Bring a few small nuts and a rack of cams to 3", a half dozen draws and 6-8 slings.
Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes.
History:  October 2007 - Chuck Woodman & Jack Dorsey


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