NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:30a on 07/02/22 - Temperature: 67.6 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 67.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.684 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 49 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Huntington / Once is Enough (5.10d III)
Directions:  Park at a wide pull off near a Forest Service sign that says ŽNo camping or fires except at campgroundsŪ. This is located just downhill from where the road comes closest to the rock. Walk through the small clearing and look for an opening by a large rock. Follow a very rough trail with ribbons for about 20-30 minutes until you come to a steep slab. Head right up a loose gully for 50', then left to the base of the corner.
Description: The climb is located on the middle section of rock seen high above the Kancamagus Highway, a mile below the Lincoln side of the pass, on a southerly spur descending off Mt. Huntington. The lower pitch consists of somewhat friable rock, the second pitch is better, and final headwall pitch is high quality and offers a spectacular finish. Looking at the cliff from the road, the climb starts at the bottom of the middle section of rock and finishes on the steep wall just left of the huge right trending overhang at the top.
    Pitch 1: Climb up a blocky corner for 15 feet, then step left to a smooth white face and a bolt. Easy climbing alternates between short headwalls and low angle scrambling. Continue straight up past bushes and a few bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.6 160'

    Pitch 2: Move up and right past a bolt, then climb straight up and scramble over a sloping blueberry ledge. Better climbing leads up and left past a couple of bolts, then head straight up on nice rock, passing an occasional bolt. A hard friction move is encountered below the two bolt belay. 5.7 170'

    Pitch 3: ŽThe Headwall PitchŪ. Friction up past bolts, then plug in a small cam below an overlap and do a strenuous mantle on good holds, to a pin on the right. Climb straight up on steepening rock to a good stance below the bulging crux. Using a small flake and a few hidden holds, follow bolts up and right over the bulge. There is an excellent two finger pocket just to the left of the last bolt. After overcoming the steep wall, head straight up to a good ledge, place a large cam up high, then head left over a smooth headwall to another good ledge. Climb up and right past one final bolt to a two bolt anchor at the very top of the cliff. 5.10d 130'

Gear: A rack consisting of 6 draws, a half dozen cams to 3.5 inches and a 6-8 shoulder length slings would suffice.
Descent: Three rappels lead straight down to the start of the climb. Due to the low angle, brushy nature of the first pitch, the last rappel is easier straight down the gully to the start of the climb.
History:  September 2004 - Chuck Woodman, rope solo. Bolts on the crux bulge were placed while hanging from hooks.


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