NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:29a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 59.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 59.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.822 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 79 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Huntington / Perennial (400) (5.9 III)
Directions:  Follow the basic directions as for Southern Migration. Approach from the bottom toe of the main cliff. Scramble up and right for 100 to a ledge with a Piton belay.
Description: Another new climb located on the right hand side of the Mt. Huntington cliff as seen from near the top of the Kanc.
    Pitch 1: Follow the line of bolts up and over a steep bulge to a clean slab above. (5.9) 80. 7 bolts.

    Variation P1: From the pin belay. Climb up and to the right of a right facing corner. Climb the face to an overlap (bolt), continue up the face to a horizontal crack that accepts a small cam. From the crack continue up to a two bolt anchor. (5.4) 80. 1 pin, 1 Bolt, small cam.

    Pitch 2: Climb up a smooth slab for 100 heading for a left facing corner. Climb to the right of the corner and over three overlaps to a tree belay up and left. (5.7) 160. 4 bolts, 2 pins and small cams.
    Variation P2: From the belay head strait up to a bolt and then veer slightly left to join pitch 2 that is describe above at the second bolt.

    Pitch 3: Face climb up the shallow right facing corner to a rest then climb a slab to the left up to a bolt. Clip two more bolts up and over a small overhang (harder for shorter climbers) to an anchor straight up. (5.6) 90. 4 bolts, small to medium cams.

    Pitch 4: From the belay. Head right to a large left pointing flake. Climb straight up with a mix of face and slab climbing until you see a pair of ring anchors just below and right of the final block. Most climbers will prefer to rap from the ring anchors. However it is possible to mantel to the right of this block and climb up into the trees to reach the top of the block. (5.8 ) 120. 2 ring anchors, 4 bolts, 2 Pins and a long sling for the flake.
    Variation P4: After the second pin. Climb straight up with gear until you reach a single bolt on top of a bulge that is just below the trees. Follow a slight opening though the spruce that takes you to the top of the large block. You can rap from the large tree on top of the block. (5.4)

Gear: Bring a standard rock rack.
Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes.
History:  July 26,2008 - Bill Keiler, Jack Dorsey


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