Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Reformed (5.9-)
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| Located directly above the belay for The Possessed at the North End. You could climb The Roof to the slings and then traverse left on a small ledge over the roof (single bolt for protection) and step/swing down to an anchor. Or you can bypass the the initial 30' pitch and start on the far side of the Unicorn Ledge. |
"If Jack The Ripper went straight, he would be reformed!" George Hurley finds yet another climb in an area once thought to be tapped out. A mix of crack and face climbing. Each pitch/section has a single 5.9- move that is protected by a bolt. While you can do the entire 120' climb in a single pitch, by breaking it up into 2 sections the leader and second can hear each other.
Pitch 1: Climb straight up with reasonable protection past a bolt (5.9-) to a two-bolt anchor on the far left side of the Unicorn Ledge. - 30'
Pitch 2: Climb straight up the overhanging face where the offwidth crack is. The climbing is easier than it looks and there is good protection in a small crack on the right. - 100'
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| standard rack
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| walk off or rappel from big trees with 2 ropes |
| August 18,2009 - George Hurley & David Giampitro |
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