Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Cecile (5.13d)
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Start to the left of the pendulum tree. |
This route is named after Jay Conway's grandmother. At the time of the FA she was 91 years old and going strong. Jay says; "I am pretty sure if she started climbing tomorrow she would flash this by friday and down rate it to 12a."
Pitch 1: tart to the left of the pendulum tree. Clip a high bolt and do a boulder problem. Then place some gear and do another boulder problem to easier climbing and belay at a crack or at the tree. 12c 70'
Pitch 2: Free climb Topless Tellers(A4). The corner looks easy but is ridiculously hard. At the top of the corner make a spooky exit move, clip a new bolt, then make a puzzling traverse/dyno left into Mines of Moria(A2). Launch into a hard and scary boulder problem with big fall potential (only clipping the good bolt). Finish with awesome and exposed climbing to the top. 13d 100'
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standard rack, whatever that means on a 13d!
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August 31,2008 - Jay Conway |
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