NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Rock Routes at Mineral Site Ledge: grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Description: Yet another obscure crag with some nice climbing. If you have a mountain bike you can get there quite easily. The trick is making it down and up the steep gully before you get to the 4-corners intersection. Can you ride it with your pack on?
Directions: This is accessed off Passaconaway Road from West Side Road, or from the Kancamagus Highway, Just to the Conway side of Red Eagle Pond, look for an unmarked gravel road. This will be on your right, coming from West Side Road, and is just after a downhill curve to the right. Follow this road past a number of houses to a gated intersection, turn left up a hill and continue to its end at a sizeable parking area. A well-traveled path leaves the end of the lot opposite the entry. Follow this path for about 15 minutes, avoiding turnoffs, until you reach a four-way junction, with a large hemlock tree in its center. Turn left passing through a spruce forest into a beech forest. The trail may be brushed over due to the Forest Service discouraging mountain bikers! Less than a mile from the parking area, you will find a 30’ boulder on the right hand side of the trail – the Tent Boulder. Look up and left, and you will see the crag. The original route ascends the prominent dihedral in the center of the crag, which can be seen from the trail. Boulder up through talus blocks to establish yourself at the base of the crag.
Area Name Grade
Everything Ugly 5.11c
Flying Fin A3
Free this you @#$%s! A2
Perdito 5.12
Swing Dance 5.10+
The Open Book 5.9
Twin Towers A3 5.6
Underpass 5.9
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