| Ice Routes at Lake Willoughby: grouped by Area, sorted by Name |
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Nice day at the Lake in early March. |
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There is no question that Lake Willoughby (a.k.a. The Lake) has the biggest ice this side of the Canadian Rockies. Generations of New England ice climbers have cut their teeth on the huge ice that forms here every year. Imagine 30+ climbs, some up to 600' high, lined up for a mile and a half like huge white dominos. Seeing the main wall at Willoughby can be an inspiring or terrifying sight. |
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Amazingly enough Lake Willoughby is only about 1 3/4 hours north of North Conway near Lyndonville, VT. Take Rt. 91 to exit 23. Follow Rt 5 through Lyndonville and at West Burke take a right onto Rt. 5A. In a mere 7.2 miles you will be in ice climbing mecca. For climbs on the right half of the cliff park at the plowed lot at the right end of the lake. For climbs on the middle or far end there are several pullouts that may be available. |
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| Around the rock buttress left of Twenty Below Zero is an amphitheater. Last Gentleman is the left hand of two giant ice flows. |
Last Gentleman |
WI 5 IV |
| Hike up to the Left Tablet and then walk left along the cliff. Continue past Crazy Diamond, around an obvious rock buttress. |
Glass Menagerie |
WI 5 III |
| Hike up to the Left Tablet and then walk left along the cliff. Continue past Crazy Diamond, around an obvious rock buttress. |
Twenty Below Zero Gully |
WI 4 + III |
| Left of Called on Account of Rains |
Pipe Dream |
WI 6 R/X, M5 |
| Located on a large face containing 2 huge flows. The left-most of the 2 climbs. |
Left Tablet |
WI 4 II |
| Located on a large face containing 2 huge flows. The right side of the face, just left of the trees and leading up to an obvious alcove. |
Center Tablet |
WI 3 + II |
| Located on Mt Hor, on the south side of the Lake across the lake from the Willoughby cliffs. |
Cold Hearted Hor |
WI 3 II |
| Located on Mt Hor, on the south side of the Lake across the lake from the Willoughby cliffs. |
Woober Goober Gully |
WI 3 + II |
| Located on the far left side of Left Tablet. |
Crazy Diamond |
WI 4 + |
