NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Rock Routes at Humphrey's Ledge: grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Crag picture
Description: This is a nice south-facing crag with a variety of climbs at all grades. Though it has had a reputation for mediocre quality rock, there is actually some very nice stuff to do. Humphrey's is very popular in the early spring and late fall as well as occasionally in warm snaps in the dead of winter.

Climbs labeled 'far right' are located around the corner between the Barking Dog Crag ice climbing area and Black Pudding Gully ice climbs. While much of the climbing is on the middle and left sides of the cliff, a new area was developed in 2009/2010 on the far left down the hill from Cakewalk. As this area was mostly developed by a group of climbers, all of whom were over 60 at the time, the area has been dubbed The Geriatric Walls! The rock in this area is generally of a different quality than the routes in the middle. There are also some routes on the right side of the cliff, unfortunately the rock quality is generally poor.

There is also good ice climbing around the corner on the right side of the cliffband in Black Pudding Gully, on both sides of the Pitman Arch and at the Barking Dog Crag. Some climbs have been known to come in on the main cliff and on the far left side of the cliff in the Hollow, but this is extremely rare as it is South facing.
Directions: From the north side of North Conway, turn onto River Road at a traffic light near the Eastern Slope Inn and head downhill under a railroad trestle toward the obvious cliff. Cross the river and follow the road past the Shartner strawberry fields. Continue past Cathedral Ledge and Diana's Bath. As you come up to a dip and right curve you will see Humphrey's directly ahead. Parking is allowed on the cliff side ONLY.

From the north on Rt. 302 turn right onto West Side Road. Follow this road about 3 miles, the cliff will be on your right across from the Lady Blanche House.

The ice climbing is on the far right side of the cliff, behind some houses. DO NOT park in people's driveways and ONLY park fully off the road. In addition, if you park during a snowstorm you WILL get towed!!!
Click Here to see a Google Map.
Lattitude: = 44.08860, Longitude = -71.16338
Topo: A graphic topo is available for this area. CLICK HERE
Area Name Grade
Black Pudding - Indian Creek area 12 Weeks 5.9+
Black Pudding - Indian Creek area Rear End Blues 5.5
Black Pudding - Mud Slide Crack area Mud Slide Crack 5.10
Black Pudding - Mud Slide Crack area Smear Factor 5.12b
Black Pudding - Mud Slide Crack area Sorry Rob (Two Fingers) 5.10
center Castaways 5.11
center Diss-N-Dazz 5.10c
center It's Five What? 5.10
center Robinson Crusoe 5.10b R
center Shifty Eyes 5.10c
center Six Bolts and a Plug 5.8
center Slippery When Wet 5.9
center Sticky Wicket 5.8
center Under Toe 5.8+
center Wayside Attraction 5.8
center You're a Good Man Friday 5.8
far right Even the Rain 5.8
far right Rope 5.9
left side Above And Beyond 5.9+
left side Bondi Beach 5.10b
left side Cakewalk 5.6+
left side Hidden In Plain View 5.8
left side Macadamia 5.10b
left side Move it or Lose It 5.11
left side Over Arch 5.9
left side Piece Of Cake 5.9
left side Reverse Traverse 5.6
left side Run Don't Walk 5.9
left side Short & Sweet 5.10
left side Think Fast Mr. Moto 5.9
left side Wanderlust 5.8+
right side African Queen 5.9 R
right side Blockade 5.8
right side Buried Treasure 5.10
right side Can YOU Believe It? 5.8
right side Jagen Die Sieben 5.9+
right side Procession 5.12b
right side Straight Up 5.9+ R
right side Wiessner Route 5.8 R
The Geriatric Walls Anniversary 5.9
The Geriatric Walls Around the Corner 5.10
The Geriatric Walls As Easy as Instant Pudding Pie 5.4
The Geriatric Walls Cornered 5.6
The Geriatric Walls Daddy's Got New Shoes 5.7
The Geriatric Walls Gaggle Of Geese 5.8
The Geriatric Walls High Steppin' 5.7
The Geriatric Walls It's Not What It Seems 5.10
The Geriatric Walls Kitty Litter Pillar 5.8+
The Geriatric Walls Lost & Found 5.10c
The Geriatric Walls Lost Canadian 5.9
The Geriatric Walls Mischief 5.5
The Geriatric Walls Old Crow 5.9
The Geriatric Walls Put My Foot Where? 5.10
The Geriatric Walls Relapped 5.10
The Geriatric Walls Rematch 5.10c
The Geriatric Walls Rumble In The Jungle 5.10
The Geriatric Walls Silent Treatment 5.6
The Geriatric Walls Steppin' Out 5.10b R
The Geriatric Walls Sting Like A Butterfly 5.10+
The Geriatric Walls The Life Of Riley 5.9
The Geriatric Walls The Wabi Sabi Way 5.7
The Geriatric Walls Three Brushes 5.5
The Geriatric Walls Tree Key's 5.7
The Geriatric Walls Wabi Sabi West 5.6
The Geriatric Walls Yellowjacket 5.7
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