NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Ice Routes at Humphrey's Ledge: grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Description: This is a nice south-facing crag with a variety of climbs at all grades. Though it has had a reputation for mediocre quality rock, there is actually some very nice stuff to do. Humphrey's is very popular in the early spring and late fall as well as occasionally in warm snaps in the dead of winter.

Climbs labeled 'far right' are located around the corner between the Barking Dog Crag ice climbing area and Black Pudding Gully ice climbs. While much of the climbing is on the middle and left sides of the cliff, a new area was developed in 2009/2010 on the far left down the hill from Cakewalk. As this area was mostly developed by a group of climbers, all of whom were over 60 at the time, the area has been dubbed The Geriatric Walls! The rock in this area is generally of a different quality than the routes in the middle. There are also some routes on the right side of the cliff, unfortunately the rock quality is generally poor.

There is also good ice climbing around the corner on the right side of the cliffband in Black Pudding Gully, on both sides of the Pitman Arch and at the Barking Dog Crag. Some climbs have been known to come in on the main cliff and on the far left side of the cliff in the Hollow, but this is extremely rare as it is South facing.
Directions: From the north side of North Conway, turn onto River Road at a traffic light near the Eastern Slope Inn and head downhill under a railroad trestle toward the obvious cliff. Cross the river and follow the road past the Shartner strawberry fields. Continue past Cathedral Ledge and Diana's Bath. As you come up to a dip and right curve you will see Humphrey's directly ahead. Parking is allowed on the cliff side ONLY.

From the north on Rt. 302 turn right onto West Side Road. Follow this road about 3 miles, the cliff will be on your right across from the Lady Blanche House.

The ice climbing is on the far right side of the cliff, behind some houses. DO NOT park in people's driveways and ONLY park fully off the road. In addition, if you park during a snowstorm you WILL get towed!!!
Click Here to see a Google Map.
Lattitude: = 44.08860, Longitude = -71.16338
Topo: A graphic topo is available for this area. CLICK HERE
Area Name Grade
1/8 mile right of Black Pudding Barking Dog Crag WI 3
right of main cliff Black Pudding Gully WI 4+ II
right of main cliff BPG Variations WI 4+ II
right of main cliff Tripecicle WI 5 II
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