NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Rock Routes at Mt. Oscar (lower left): grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Description: Basically the cliff on the back side of the Bretton Woods ski area. While it has a distinct back woods climbing feel, it's very easy to access, as long as you have a mountain bike. It's not clear who put up the first routes in the area, but Uwe Schneider and Crag Taylor were certainly some of the first. More recently a crew of climbers including Jon Sykes, Jamie Cunningham and Joe & Judy Perez have been putting up a wide variety of nice trad routes at all grades. Highly recommended...
Directions: Turn off of route 302 onto the Zealand Notch Road (closed during the winter) located between Twin Mountain and Bretton Woods. Drive approximately .8 miles to the trailhead parking just beyond the campground areas and before the bridge at Zealand River (the paved road ends after the bridge). Across the road (east) is a gated forest service fire access road. They logged off of this road the winter of 2009 and it passes through fresh log landings and small clear cuts. Walk for about twenty minutes. To the west are great views of Mt. Hale and the cliffs on Middle Sugarloaf. Look for a small boulder (about 8 foot cubed) located on the east (left) side of the road and just before a log skidding road also on the left. A large clear cut will be on the west (right) side of the road. Turn left onto this skid road and follow for about 300 feet. At a rock cairn branch left onto a climber’s trail which leads to the left side of Mt. Oscar’s cliff after approximately 10 to 15 minutes.

Special thanks to Jamie Cunningham and also to Jon Sykes for this information.
Click Here to see a Google Map.
Lattitude: = 44.250487, Longitude = -71.471086
Area Name Grade
Oscar the Grouch 5.9
main cliff: 1 Crescent 5.7
main cliff: 2 unknown 5.9
main cliff: 3 unknown 5.9
main cliff: 4 Ben Zen Send 5.8
main cliff: 5 Moose Spirit 5.10
main cliff: 6 Moose Meat (Rancid) 5.10
main cliff: 7 Randy’s Super Fine Triplelishes 5.10
main cliff: 8 Coffee Achievers 5.11
main cliff: 8a Coffee Achievers Variation: French Roast 5.11
main cliff: 9 Bipolar Brain Flush 5.9
main cliff: 9a Bipolar Brain Flush Variation: Bipolar Brain Fart 5.8 R
main cliff: 10 Oscar’s Last Stand 5.10
main cliff: 11 Bob Loblaw 5.7+
main cliff: 12 unknown 5.10
main cliff: 13 Ugly Dirty 5.7
main cliff: 14 Vegetated Gully 5.1
main cliff: 15 Cunningham’s Crusade 5.8
main cliff: 15a Cunningham’s Crusade Variation: CC Direct Start 5.6 x
main cliff: 16 Three Bubba’s Trilogy 5.11
main cliff: 17 unknown 5.8 +
main cliff: 18 vegetated line
main cliff: 20 Charismatic Mime 5.8
main cliff: 21 Broken Clown 5.6
main cliff: 22 Highway 5.9
main cliff: 23 Bucking Bronco Arête 5.8
main cliff: 24 Raven Groove 5.6
main cliff: 25 unknown 5.7
main cliff: 26 Wasabe Groove 5.8
main cliff: 27 Raven Ridge 5.6
main cliff: 28 Cruising the Great Corner 5.7
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Mooney Mountain Guides
International Mountain Equipment
Bagels Plus
the American Alpine Club
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
International Mountain Climbing School
Friends Of The Ledges
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Savage Mountain Gear
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List