NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Rock Routes at Squaredock: grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Description: Squaredock is a great early-season or late-season cliff. It gets lots of sun and can be dry before winter is over. Watch for peregrine falcon closures and poison ivy here, as well as loose rock.
Directions: To get to Squaredock: From Fryeburg: follow Rte 5 North for about 20 miles, turn left on rte 5/35 towards Bethel Follow Rt. 5/35 for approx. 3.6 miles (at about 3 miles you will see a clearing with a view of the cliff on left) Turn left on Mosquito Pond Rd. (just after an abandoned red house also on left. sign is missing, look for orange flagging) Go over logging bridge, take left at the "intersection" of dirt roads. Follow road for approx. 1/4 mile to a small clearing / parking area. The approach trail is marked with orange surveyors tape, the trail is near the entry point of the clearing. Follow the climbers trail to the base of the cliff, the hike time is a gentle uphill and takes about 20 minutes. The trail forks near the cliff (marked with two bands of tape), the left fork goes to the "Steep Wall, Big Science area" and the right fork goes to the "Planetarium Wall, and the Critter Wall". Heading up to the Planetarium Wall, the first climb you will see is a left facing crack corner with a tree about half way up, this is 5.8 trad. Look for a bolted anchor on the right. There may be additional pitches above. The big wall you will encounter next is the Planetarium Wall. Look for a fixed line across a sometimes wet slab.
Area Name Grade
Planetarium Wall: 1 The Eagle has Landed 5.7 R
Planetarium Wall: 2 Star Gazer 5.10
Planetarium Wall: 3 Vortex 5.11
Planetarium Wall: 4 The Right Stuff 5.10b
Planetarium Wall: 5 Enter the Dragon (a.k.a. Don’t Strain your Andromeda) 5.10b
The Critter Wall: 1 The Buffalo 5.4
The Critter Wall: 2 True Grit 5.10+
The Critter Wall: 3 Snake in the Grass 5.10
The Critter Wall: 4 Hop's Heyday 5.9 R
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