NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Rock Routes at Dickey Mountain: grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Description: The white coarse-grained granite of Dickey Mountain offers challenges to climbers of all abilities in a beautiful mountain setting. The main cliff is over 1/4 mile long and up to 300 feet high. An enjoyable trail makes the 1 mile approach reasonable and most of the routes are well worth the effort.

Left Side: The Left side is characterized by short Steep crack climbs. There are a few bolts but plan on a trad adventure.

The Ocean: 100 feet right of Flakes Alive one comes to an area referred to as the Ocean. This is home to some of Dickeys’ best. If you like well protected 5.11 face climbing you’ll find nirvana on this 70 degree wall.

The Beach: Up and right of the Ocean is The Beach. This sunny slab is situated in the middle third of the cliff above the trees. There are two ways to get there. 1 - Where the hiking trail comes out on top of the ledge follow it left for about 30ft and look down right for an eyebolt near the top of a vegetated left facing corner (looking out) on a low angle slab. Rappel from here 80ft to 2 more eyebolts ( the lower off for 4 of the routes at the beach). From here rappel 60ft down to a belay at a flake and small boulder. Gear required. 2 - It is also possible to rappel 100ft to the ground.

The Buttress: The Buttress is a stepped nose of rock that is the dividing line between the steeper left side of the ledge and the long low angled slabs to the right. Several routes share the same wonderful belay ledge.

The Slabs: The Slabs offer long pitches of moderate climbing. Many variations and poorly protected routes have been done here so only a few routes will be mentioned as they have adequate protection.

The Dark Side: The Dark Side is characterized by steep traditional climbing with the occasional bolt on routes up to 100’ long. The starts to many of the climbs suffer from seepage early season. It is worth persevering thru 10ft of wet to reach some really classic climbing. The route Resident Evil is a must do. To get to the Dark Side follow the trail down from Standard Route until you can hike right on a faint trail for about 100 yds. You’ll pass thru some boulders before reaching a short wall on your left. As you move up along this wall you’ll come to a left facing corner just past a flake of rock leaning against the cliff. This is The Stack.

A Few Thoughts
There is a very popular hiking trail that runs along the top of the cliff. Climber visibility, or lack thereof, is very important. There are no restrictions on climbing here as of yet and maintaining a low profile will help insure that it stays this way. For this reason, no fixed anchors are found at the top of the cliff and it would be appreciated if it stays that way. The upper half of the cliff is low angle slab, so most of the harder routes do not top out. Decent is usually from fixed anchors at the top of your climb. Most climber will never notice the hoards of hikers that converge on the area on weekends, but beware of projectiles launched from the top!

There are no ethics police here, thus how bolts are places is not important. What is important is that the bolts are 3/8 inch minimum, preferably sealed with a silicone adhesive. To date only 3 routes have been bolted on rappel. What's really important is the preservation of this high-quality environment. The long approach will help prevent the "urban blight" associate with many roadside crags, and if climbers make an effort to carry out more than they carry in and generally create a positive image, our lace in these mountains will be assured.

Climbing is a privilege, not a right and this point cannot be over-emphasized.
Directions: Take Interstate 93 to Exit 28 - Waterville Valley - and follow Rt 49 North through the intersection (jct 175). At about 4.5 miles turn left across Mad River Road. About 1/2 mile turn right on Orris Road (sign for Welch) and when the road turns left in about 1/2 mile turn right into the parking lot.

There is a loop trail over Welch and Dickey Mountains. From the trailhead take the trail clockwise, toward Dickey. In 1 mile tar trail will land you on top of the slabs. To reach the base, hike right (facing down) to the woods and bushwhack down the side of the ledge.
Click Here to see a Google Map.
Lattitude: = 43.923121, Longitude = -71.580563
Area Name Grade
Left Side Border Crossing 5.10+
Left side Fern Crack 5.11b
Left side Flakes Alive 5.9+
Left Side Layback 5.9
Left side Open project ungraded
Left Side South America Flake 5.11+
Left Side The Corner ungraded
Left Side The Good Book 5.10+
The Beach Boat Ramp 5.11c
The Beach Dead Toe 5.8+
The Beach Goose Bumps 5.9+
The Beach Highway Star 5.9
The Beach Slab Therapy 5.10
The Beach Spinning Wheels 5.11+
The Beach The Toe Crack 5.5
The Beach The Water Course 5.4
The Buttress Glen's Route 5.11+
The Buttress Mike's Other 5.9 5.10
The Dark Side Butt Scum 5.10
The Dark Side Lurking In The Bushes 5.10
The Dark Side Resident Evil 5.10d
The Dark Side Short Stack 5.10
The Dark Side Stormy Monday 5.5
The Dark Side The Dark Side 5.8
The Dark Side The Stack 5.11
The Ocean Bosch Drills And Pecker Heads 5.11d
The Ocean Brain Cramp 5.11c
The Ocean Learn To Swim 5.11b
The Ocean Members Only 5.12
The Ocean Open Project as of 2011 ungraded
The Ocean Sex On The Beach 5.11
The Ocean Subversive Behavior 5.11b
The Slabs Mirage 5.4
The Slabs The Standard Route 5.6
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