NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Rock Routes at CMC Craig: grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Description: The CMC Crag (Chinos Mountain Club Crag) is really 2 small cliffs located left and below the Pick Of The Litter Crag near White's Ledge in Bartlett. I don't know how it was found, but I can well imagine that it's visible from Attitash or maybe 302 in the fall/winter and perhaps could be come across when thrashing down from Pick Of The Litter. All of the routes in the area at the time of this writing were done by Jonathan Garlough, James Dickson, Joshua Corbett and Tom Zimmerman.

While there are some bolts, this is hardly a sport area. You'll need to bring a full trad rack with you. Whatever you use to climb on Cathedral Ledge will do admirably.
Directions: Drive north on Rt. 302 from the intersection of Rt. 16, to Covered Bridge Lane, just before the red covered bridge gift shop. Stay left at all intersections until you see a dirt road on the left, Rick's Road, and a pipe gate. The gate should always be open. This road runs parallel to the Saco River on your left. Follow the dirt road (9/10 of a mile) past a swamp on your right looking for 2 pullouts on your right where you park for White's Ledge

Continue down the road and look for a small pulloff on the left that overlooks the river, Breezy Point. There is sometimes an old chair there. Park about 100' up the road on th left and walk up the road another 300' or so. Look carefully for an inobvious trail on the right, there may be piece of surveyor's tape in the woods to mark the start of the trail and depending on the season there may be a stream on the left side of the trail.

Follow the trail steeply uphill to a mossy slab and turn left. You should be able to see the cliff on your left. The trail is not all that obvious at this point and it's a bit dicey as you go across a small slab so caution is urged. The trail really does need to be rerouted so you start across a bit earlier. NOTE - If you continue straight up and then go left you will be on top of the cliff! This is the "Main Wall". It is about a 15 minute hike from the car. The "Chinos Slab" is another 300' left of the left side of the Main Wall, about 100' uphill and it's a bit of a bushwhack unless you start from the top of the cliff!
Area Name Grade
Chinos Slab Cross Roads East 5.5
Chinos Slab Cross Roads West 5.6
Chinos Slab Handrails 5.5
Main Wall Angel Of Sin 5.7+
Main Wall Clean Yer Act Up 5.8
Main Wall CMC Crack 5.7+
Main Wall Good For The Soul 5.8
Main Wall Keepin' It Natural 5.8
Main Wall Wild Things 5.6+
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