NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Rock Routes at Mt Oscar (SW face): grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Description: The SW Face of Mount Oscar hosts a variety of climbs leading to beautiful, exposed views of the Zealand Valley and Pemigewasset Wilderness. It is similar to a European climbing experience. At Mount Oscar, you can take a chairlift ride up a mountain, go for a short hike and beautiful, multi-pitch climb, then hike back to a mountain top restaurant for food and drinks before riding back down on the chairlift. Routes range in difficulty from 5.5 - 5.7, perfect for the beginning leader. Climbs are bolted where other protection is unavailable. The main section of the face is about 300' high. Routes range from 2 to 5 pitches long. Pitches are generally less than 100' long.

Latitude 44, located at the top of the Bethlehem Express Quad, is a great spot for apres-climb food and beverages. Check with Bretton Woods staff for current hours.

Bretton Woods Ski Area offers guided climbs on Mount Oscar under an Outfitter/Guide permit with the US Forest Service. Check for details.

You may encounter temporary fixed ropes that are used by Bretton Woods guides. Like any equipment you encounter on climbing routes, climbers may use these ropes at their own risk.

Thanks to Stephen Nichipor for all the crag information.
Directions: One ride lift tickets are available at the Bretton Woods Ski Area. Hike to the right from the top of the Bethlehem Express Quad. Follow the access road until you see signs marking a hiking trail on your left. Head up the hill and walk straight across the ski trail to a spot where the hiking trail enters the woods. Follow this trail until you get to a sign for the "Climbers Only" trail. The trail heads downhill for a couple hundred yards, then merges with a historic trail. In a hundred feet or so, the historic trail continues straight and the climbers trail heads right. Follow the path through a spruce/fir forest to the base of the cliff. The trail puts you right at the base of the Guides Route and Euro Crack.
Topo: A graphic topo is available for this area. CLICK HERE
Area Name Grade
Circling Scavengers 5.7
Euro Crack 5.5
Guides' Route 5.6
Klettersteig Ridge 5.4
Mount Oscar Direct 5.7
Overlaps Direct 5.7
The Booklet Left 5.6
The Staircase 5.5
Vultures' Express 5.7
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