Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Jagen Die Sieben (5.9+)
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About 200' to the left of Guide's Route and Wiesner's Dike, locate an 18" diameter beech tree two feet from the base of a steep face. Approximately 12' to the left of this tree, identify a vertical jam-crack that starts at wide finger width, and opens, gradually to wide hand width. |
According to Ed Webster's guide, the climbing on P3 is superb. This route has rarely been repeated.
Pitch 1: Jam the hand-crack, or the flakes to the right, to reach a 4" maple, which grows from the crack. At this point the face angles back, and the crack widens. After another 15' of easy climbing you will be on the tree ledge. Traverse left about 30' and belay from a white Birch tree.
Pitch 2: A the short difficult (5.9+) pitch. Climb straight up (crux) and then continue on easier ground to another tree ledge.
Pitch 3: Just to the right climb a narrow corner. This forms a perfect 7 on the upper face. Continue straight up on knobs (5.7), or undercling to the left (5.8). Belay under a wall.
Pitch 4: Follow the easy upper slabs to the top of the cliff.
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standard rack with cams, wired nuts and tri-cams
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Walk to the left and find the Robinson Crusoe anchor to rap, or rap the route - both with 2 ropes. |
April 2,1980 - George Hurley, Al Bagdonas, John Mitamura |
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