NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Around the Corner (5.10)
Directions:  Hike left along the cliff past Robinson Crusoe. As the trail goes uphill to Wanderlust take a left on a separate trail. The first route you come to is Easy As Pudding Pie. Continue along the cliff gradually uphill and look for a tree close to the cliff with keys embedded in the trunk near eye level. This is Tree Keys. Around the Corner starts 15 ft left of Tree Keys, directly in front of the beech tree.
Description: The route consists of a slab to a nicely featured face and then finishes up a steep corner. Dave Penny discovered the route when he bailed right around a corner from a 5.12 project. Under heavy lichen he found nicely featured rock, which he used to climb up and retrieve his top rope anchor.
    Pitch 1: Step up on nice rock to clip the first bolt. Step onto the ledge and lay the crack back to the right (protected by cams). When the crack ends, step left onto the face with nicely featured rock protected by bolts. Surmount the face onto a ledge. Follow the corner up past three bolts ( crux) to join the last bolt and anchor on Tree Keys.

Gear: 8 bolts, 2 cams, 1 optional cam before exit, or just pull on thru. Cams are small to medium
Descent: rappel the route from the Tree Keys anchor with a single rope
History:  July 31,2011 - Dave Penny, Chris Graham, Bob Ahearn

 

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