NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:29a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 59.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 59.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.822 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 79 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Straight Up (5.9+ R)
Straight Up
Brad White giving the start a go 30 years after the FA
Photo by NEClimbs
Directions:  Hike up the normal trail to the cliff and go left about 100'. The climb starts on a clean gray slab below an obvious groove that goes straight up through 2 small headwalls.
Description: Todd and Brad did the climb one evening after work. While some of the climbing is pretty good, it is plagued by some typical Humphrey's crumbly rock. The route is rarely, if ever, repeated. You can use the anchor on Can YOU Believe It? to toprope the lower part of the first pitch.
    Pitch 1: Follow the obvious groove up through a small bulge to a stance just below a small headwall. Clip the bolt that's just over the top and pull the headwall. Pad up the clean slab to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner past an old pin and over a bulge (crux) to a bushy ledge and fallen white birch. 70', 5.9+R

    Pitch 2: Climb a slightly overhanging wall, past a small roof (crux) on to better holds up to a tree ledge. 60', 5.8

    Pitch 3: Climb 30' directly up the face (crux) to the left of "The 7" and onto a juniper ledge. 60', 5.8

    Pitch 4: Face climb off the ledge (crux) and continue straight up some slabs and overlaps. 60', 5.8

Gear: standard rack
Descent: walk left and rap down Robinson Crusoe or rappel the route with 2 ropes
History:  September 27,1980 - Todd Swain and Brad White


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