NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Dickey Mountain / Glen's Route (5.11+)
Directions:  30 ft right of Boat Ramp you come to a 5 ft high left facing corner at the base of a low angle slab. Glen's Route begins at this corner.
Description: 
    Pitch 1: Climb the corner and up the nose of rock to an overlap with a bolt at the top. Gain the low angle slab and follow a left facing flake/crack to a short headwall with 2 bolts, crux. Move right to another overlap, bolt, with a tricky move then up past another bolt to a nice belay ledge. 5 bolts and gear. 5.11+

Gear: Standard rack + draws
Descent: Rappel from the 2 eyebolts atop The Beach.

 

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