Climbing Area Index / White Ledge (Albany) / The Rusty Bolt (Old School 5.9+ R/X) (5.9+ R/X)
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| Start at the toe of rock and climb the first pitch of Old Route |
Pitch 1: Climb 25' up a short slab to a tree ledge and follow a vegetated groove to a two bolt anchor on the left side of a large white flake system. 50' 5.4
Pitch 2: Start at the first belay of Old Route. Step left and climb smooth 5.9ish slab to a small stance at an old ¼ inch bolt. Climb up and right to a slight rib (crux), and then make a long runout slightly left (5.8) into ground out territory to reach small flakes for protection. Climb up and make a long leftwards traverse under the big overlap following shallow flakes and ripples till you can join Eminent Domain at the two bolt anchor. Another possible finish is to climb straight up to the small shallow rooted tree. Behind the tree climb over the overlap on the right running it out up the blank slab till the slanting finger crack of “Go West Young Man' is reached. Move right and up to the gear belay of Old Route. Finish as desired.
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| A normal rack to #3 Camalot size is sufficient for the climb.
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| Rappel the route with a single 70 meter rope, 2-60 meter ropes, or walk off |
| Unknown... |
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