NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:59a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 58.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 58.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.818 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 93 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / White Ledge (Albany) / Manifest Destiny (5.8)
Directions:  Start at the toe of rock.
    Pitch 1: Climb the slab via the center clean streak to a bolt at 25'. Climb to a short headwall, up this (bolt / crux), then left and up to another bolt and a small tree clump belay. 70' 5.8

    Pitch 2: Climb the right side of the large flake to its top at a left curving crack. Step up right to a clean white face with 2 bolts (crux). Climb straight up past a horizontal finger crack and a small black tri-cam pocket to a triangular block. Climb right around the block and up slab above past a bolt to a gear belay at the left end of the large overlap. 140' 5.8 Medium cams for the belay.

    Pitch 3: Stem up above the belay and clip a bolt on the left side of the big overlap. Step left and climb up the slab moving slightly right to the next small overlap. Step over this and continue moving up and right on the slab under the bigger overlap above till 10 feet left of a small clump of trees. Climb straight up over the bulge on white rock (left of an upside-down v-slot) crossing over a thin horizontal crack to join the left slanting dike. Follow the dike left to a spectacular overhanging corner. Layback the corner, (crux 5.8) to a gear belay on the right at a left facing flake. 135' 5.8 (medium cams for belay)

    Pitch 4: Climb straight up the left facing corner above the belay to low angle slabs that are followed to the top of the cliff. 115' 5.4

Gear: A full modern rack plus possibly a double set of cams (mostly for the upper two gear belays) in the #.75 (green) , #1 (red) and #2 (yellow) BD Camalot sizes.
Descent: Rappel the route with a single 70 meter rope, 2-60 meter ropes, or walk off
History:  2011 - FRA. Brad White and Matt Peer Summer 2011.


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