NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:30a on 07/01/22 - Temperature: 58.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 58.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.983 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 57 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / White Ledge (Albany) / Illusion of Prosperity (5.10)
Directions:  Start at the toe of Rock, ten feet right of the center (Manifest Destiny's) clean streak.
    Pitch 1: Climb 35 feet up a thin strip of clean rock (cam at 20') to a flat ledge below the steeper rock. Climb flakes and thin cracks up and then left to a tricky step over at the left edge of the headwall onto a slab. Climb the easy slab to the right tree on the big ledge. 5.7 70'

    Pitch 2: Climb up and slightly left to a bolt on a steep swell. Make 5.9 moves past the bolt to a horizontal shelf with a thin horizontal crack. Move right up steep slab to a hole with a bolt above. Climb left then straight up the center of the slab above getting protection on the right edge in scoops and cracks till a large double overlap with a small right facing corner above is reached. Pull the center of the two tiered overlap with good protection (crux 5.10) then move up and right 10' to the 2 bolt belay on Trail of tears. 5.10 (5.8 PG13) 140'

    Pitch 3: This pitch wanders a bit but picks up some good climbing on the way. Bring a lot of long slings if you are leading with a single rope to eliminate rope drag. The big overlap with the wide crack underneath can suffer from seepage after a lot of rain. Climb up and left for 35' crossing Manifest Destiny's slab to a short smooth step. Pull the step at a nose of rock with a tiny one finger pocket on the left (crux, bolt). Climb the slab to the wide crack under the center overlap. Even though the crack is four to six inches wide smaller gear can be found up inside and to the left. Move left for 15'or so till a step up on edges can be made to the next shelf. Move straight up the slab crossing a very thin horizontal crack to the next vertical wall. Protect, and then step right into a shallow right facing corner system. Climb this then move right crossing Manifest Destiny again to the steep crack in the center of the left facing wall of the dihedral. Climb the short crack (only 5.6!) to the arÍte and follow this to the gear anchor at the flat ledge on Manifest Destiny. This gear anchor takes perfect #2 (Yellow) Camalot size pieces and also a #1 (Red) so I would recommend bringing doubles in both cams and saving both of the #2's for the belay. 5.10a 130'

    Pitch 4: Finish straight up on Manifest Destiny's 5.4 corner to slab. 115' 5.4

Gear: A full modern rack is needed with extra #1 and #2 Camelot.
Descent: Rappel the route with a single 70 meter rope, 2-60 meter ropes, or walk off
History:  June 2012 - Paul Cormier and Brad White


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