NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 8:29a on 10/31/20 - Temperature: 22.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 22.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.381 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 0. Minimal ice available for the hard core and mixed aficionados!
0 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / White Ledge (Albany) / Eminent Domain (5.9)
Directions:  Start at the toe of rock.
Description: 
    Pitch 1: Climb the left clean streak straight up using small trees on the left for protection to a small thin left diagonaling flake. Protect in the flake (protection difficult) with small cams (Yellow C-3 #2) and small nuts. Layback the flake and then follow just right of the arÍte of the Old Route groove until you can step left to a two bolt anchor on the left side of a large white flake system. 80' 5.8 PG 13 Var. Climb the first pitch of Old Route 5.4 to the same anchor.

    Pitch 2: Step left and follow seven bolts (crux near 2nd bolt) to a right facing flake (gear) that passes through the break in the large overlap. Step left to a small stance with a two bolt anchor. 5.9 110'

    Pitch 3: Climb the large left facing groove on the right to its top at short twin finger cracks. Climb the left finger crack, then straight up through small overlaps for 40' curving right to the large pine tree belay 5.5 110'

    Pitch 4: Climb straight up directly behind the pine tree past a troublesome overlap at 25' to a small tree clump. Belay at a two bolt anchor on the left side of the ledge. 5.9 60'

Gear: A full modern rack
Descent: Rappel the route with a single 70 meter rope, 2-60 meter ropes, or walk off
History:  2011 - FRA. Brad White and Matt Peer Summer 2011.

 

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