NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:30a on 07/05/22 - Temperature: 55.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 55.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.979 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 61 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Oscar (SW face) / Guides' Route (5.6)
Directions:  This is the first route you'll come to by following the climbers' trail. A prominent overlap with a right facing flake (pitch two) is directly above you, about 100' up.
    Pitch 1: Climb the slippery slab to a bolt about 10' up. Continue up to another bolt, then head up and left to the belay for Guides' Route.

    Variation: Climb the clean white slab 15 feet left of the Guides' Route past two bolts to the shared belay with the first pitch of the Guides' Route

    Pitch 2: From the belay, head up and right past two bolts to a right facing flake. At the top of the flake continue up beautiful orange granite past two more bolts and a small pocket to the belay. (100', 5.6)

    Pitch 3: Climb straight up to an overlap. Surmount the overlap and climb past a bolt to the belay. (50', 5.4)

    Pitch 4: Climb straight up to a bolt, then start heading left over two overlaps and past another bolt. After the second bolt, climb the rounded arete straight up to the belay at a pile of large boulders. (110', 5.3)

    Pitch 5: Climb straight up to the final belay. (100', 4th class)

Gear: Standard rack
Descent: Rappel the route, or hike up slabs to the top of West Mountain. As you approach the top, look for a trail (marked with cairns) that heads to your right. This trail leads to the trail that you approached on. Follow the road back to the Bethlehem Express Quad.
History:  GuidesRoute


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