NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:59a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 58.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 58.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.818 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 93 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Oscar (SW face) / Overlaps Direct (5.7)
Directions:  This route ascends directly up the largest overlaps.
    Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Guides' Route

    Pitch 2: Climb straight up to the overlap past a bolt. Make an awkward mantle move to surmount the overlap (bolt), then climb slabs up and left, past two smaller overlaps, to a two bolt anchor. (100', 5.7)

    Pitch 3: Climb straight up the clean slab, past two bolts, joining The Staircase just below the overlaps. (100', 5.5)

    Pitch 4: Pitch Four and Five: Finish up The Staircase and Guides' Route.

Gear: You'll want nuts and cams up to 1 to protect the second pitch.
Descent: Rappel the route, or hike up slabs to the top of West Mountain. As you approach the top, look for a trail (marked with cairns) that heads to your right. This trail leads to the trail that you approached on. Follow the road back to the Bethlehem Express Quad.


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