NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:59a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 58.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 58.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.818 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 93 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Oscar (SW face) / Euro Crack (5.5)
Directions:  About 20' to the right of the Guides' Route look for a fun, rounded crack.
    Pitch 1: Climb the crack to the belay. (50', 5.5)

    Variation: Start up the first pitch of Guides' Route. At the second bolt, follow the low-angled traverse ledge to the right, then directly up to the belay on Euro Crack.

    Pitch 2: Climb up and slightly left, past two bolts to the crack. Climb the crack. At the top, clip the bolt and head left to the second belay on Guides' Route. (100', 5.6)

    Pitch 3: Pitches Three-Five: Follow Guides' Route the rest of the way, or traverse left from the second belay to The Staircase

Gear: Bring a few small to medium sized cams/Tricams for protection.
Descent: Rappel the route, or hike up slabs to the top of West Mountain. As you approach the top, look for a trail (marked with cairns) that heads to your right. This trail leads to the trail that you approached on. Follow the road back to the Bethlehem Express Quad.


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