NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 8:29a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 61.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 61.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.826 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 58 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Oscar (SW face) / Mount Oscar Direct (5.7)
Directions:  Begin near two prominent, right-facing corners about 75' left of Guides' Route.
Description: Mount Oscar Direct climbs the slab to the right of the right-hand corner.
    Pitch 1: Climb the brown slab past 5 bolts. When the corner ends, head up and right to a two bolt belay. (5.5, 100')

    Variation : Climb cracks to the right of the slab.

    After the third bolt, climb up and left over the corner, joining Booklet Left at the white streak.

    Pitch 2: Follow the bolts straight up through corners and overlaps, to a two-bolt belay. (5.7, 100')

    Pitch 3: Climb up and right to the fourth belay on Guides' Route. (5.4, 75')

    Pitch 4: Follow Guides' Route to the top. (100', 4th class)

Gear: Standard rack
Descent: Rappel the route, or hike up slabs to the top of West Mountain. As you approach the top, look for a trail (marked with cairns) that heads to your right. This trail leads to the trail that you approached on. Follow the road back to the Bethlehem Express Quad.


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