Climbing Area Index / Frankenstein Cliff / Pegasus (WI 3)
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Photo by Al Hospers |
| Park at the Arethusla Falls parking lot. Walk North on the Railroad Tracks until you come to the trestle. Follow a trail to the left just before the trestle. e. Pegasus is the middle of 3 large flows, located between Chia, on the right, and Smear, on the left. The gully on the right is the start of Hobbit Couloir. |
Pegasus is often climbed in two short pitches, but with 60-meter ropes can easily be done in one. In the early and late season the top-out is often thin with running water in the middle & right. On occasion a free-standing column comes in on the left side (5). Several variations often present themselves on the right, just left of the Hobbit gully.
Pitch 1: Climb the initial bulge and slab (3) and belay at the base of the upper columns in the middle.
Pitch 2: Then climb the columns, left, right or center, to the top. (4)
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| Standard ice rack.
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| Most parties rappel the route with 2 - 60 meter ropes, although you can easily walk off to the right across the top of Chia and back around to your packs. |
| WInter 1973 - John Bragg and Rick Wilcox - 1973. |
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