NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:59a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 58.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 58.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.818 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 93 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / The Life Of Riley (5.9)
Directions:  Hike left along the cliff past Robinson Crusoe. As the trail goes uphill to Wanderlust take a left on a separate trail. The first route you come to is Easy As Pudding Pie. Keep walking uphill to the 3rd small climbing area. Life Of Riley starts in the middle of the slab just under the right angling overlap about 20' up and directly below a bolt in a brown streak about 50' up. There is a second "adventure climb" pitch that takes you up through some overlaps and a slab to a ledge. It's not of the same character of the first pitch.
Description: Named for a classic 50's TV show starring William Bendix and Al's dog Riley who sat ever-patient at the base of the climb the whole time it was being put up. The only times he moved were when the one bolt was drilled or someone gave him a dog-treat.
    Pitch 1: Climb up the middle of the slab on easy ground for 20'. Climb over the first overlap on its right side. Continue up to the headwall, balence up and clip the bolt. Surmount the headwall, plug in the gold Camelot and stand up on the ledge. Put the nut in the crack in the corner and/or clip the pin just above and right of the tip of the corner. Climb the corner to the nice tree ledge and belay from a tree. 5.9, 50'

    Pitch 2: Climb the toe of rock at the top of the tree ledge. About 20' up sling the tree hanging over the rock. Continue up and a little left, then come back right and surmount a small roof (#2 Camelot). Continue up a small slab to a little nose, pull over it and belay at a bushy tree. 5.6 (R?), 60'

Gear: P1 - Green Camelot in a notch under the initial overlap, Gold Camelot under the roof after you make the crux move past the bolt, medium nut for the final move up the corner at the top and draws for the bolt and an upper pin. P2 - standard "adventure climb" rack
Descent: Rappel the route in 1 or 2 rappels with a single 60 meter rope.
History:  April 15,2010 - Al Hospers, Judy Perez, Joe Perez


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