NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:30a on 07/05/22 - Temperature: 55.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 55.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.979 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 61 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Old Crow (5.9)
Old Crow
Al Hospers at the crux on the FA
Photo by Joe Perez
Directions:  Hike left along the cliff past Robinson Crusoe. As the trail goes uphill to Wanderlust take a left on a separate trail. The first route you come to is Easy As Pudding Pie. Continue up a small incline past 2 more small climbing areas to an obvious ledge with a couple of trees. Old Crow starts right of an obvious left facing corner that is usually wet.
Description: The crux looks harder than it actually is. When toproping it prior to the FA Al kept saying that he didn't think it was going to go, but obviously it did. On the afternoon of the FA there were lots of large black crows flying over.
    Pitch 1: Just right of the obvious left facing corner, climb up and right on easy ledges. Place small gear in horizontal flakes before you clip the first bolt. Continue past another bolt on good rock to a ledge just below the headwall. Clip the bolt in the middle of the headwall and work your way up to another bolt just over the lip. Pull over the lip using a pocket and small holds (crux) and continue straight up for 20' to the 2-bolt anchor directly above the crux bolt.

Gear: Draws and some small cams for the horizontal flake at the start.
Descent: rappel the route
History:  April 12,2010 - Al Hospers, Judy & Joe Perez


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