NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Steppin' Out (5.10b R)
Directions:  Hike left along the cliff past Robinson Crusoe. As the trail goes uphill to Wanderlust take a left on a separate trail. The first route you come to is Easy As Pudding Pie. Continue up a small incline to a comfortable ledge with a couple of trees. The climb begins to the left of Old Crow and a dark left facing corner that is often wet.
Description: This is a harder variation to the finish of High Steppin'. Good gear under the roof protects the final moves, but you better feel good about unprotected 10b face climbing on small holds.
    Pitch 1: Climb the first 30' of High Steppin' (the slab left of the left facing corner) to a bolt which is just to the right of a small overhang. Climb past the bolt to a diagonal trending crack/overlap that takes small cams. Continue past another bolt and head left (about 15’) up the gully. There is a good cam placement on the left under the boulder. Make strenuous face moves on good holds up the black wall below the center of the roof above. A good cam placement (#2 or #3) protects the moves out over the roof. After pulling the roof, step right and finish at the 2-bolt anchor common to High Steppin' and Old Crow.

Gear: Small cams for the diagonaling crack, large cams for the roof.
Descent: rappel the route
History:  May 13,2010 - Chris Graham & Dave Penny

 

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