NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:30a on 07/02/22 - Temperature: 67.6 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 67.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.684 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 49 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Kitty Litter Pillar (5.8+)
Directions:  To find this route, walk west along the stream bed, which comes from the cirque just south of Humphrey's Ledge. When you are about 100 yards from the West Side Road the stream valley is fairly flat. When it starts to get steeper, turn right (north) up a short talus slope. Find an eight-foot high corner with a 30í pillar to its left. The climb starts 30' left of this landmark. There is also a newly established path that leads past Wabi Sabi Way and along the bottom of the cliff. The path is loose and gravelly and care should be taken if you choose this route.
Description: Located 30' right of Lost Canadian, look for a "seemingly" crumbly buttress with an obvious and beautiful black streak above. Despite the relatively loose looking quality of the start, the upper portion of the climb is not to be missed and offers 35-40' of some of the best steep face climbing that Humphrey’s has to offer.
    Pitch 1: Climb easily (but cautiously) at the start of a steep buttress (good gear placements can be found behind the flakes to the left). continue up to the top of the buttress (either slinging the pillar or opting for a large cam placement on the right) to the start of a beautiful black streak with impeccable steep face climbing.

Gear: 1 bolt near the top, standard rack with several small cams (#00 TCU up to a size 3.5). Bring the tri-cams along as they will be of good use!
Descent: rappel the route with 1 rope
History:  September 17,2010 - Chris Graham, Bob Ahearn


NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
NorthEast Mountaineering
Mooney Mountain Guides
Friends Of The Ledges
International Mountain Equipment
Savage Mountain Gear
International Mountain Climbing School
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Equinox Guiding Service LLC
the American Alpine Club
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List