Climbing Area Index / Found Ledge / Cast Of Chickenhead (5.7)
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| Look for a line of bolts hidden in the moss on the right side of the slab |
An improbable but highly enjoyable line up through the moss on very cool knobs. When Bob Tafuto and his thirteen year old son Myles put up the route, Myles called the feldspar nubbins 'chickenheads'. The 'cast' part was twofold, the bulk of the climb was on these chickenheads, and Myles’ arm was in a cast at the time, but did not bother him enough to put off their FA.
Pitch 1: Follow the bolts up and right of a small right-facing corner. The main crux is the start, but you can start over right and traverse in to the first bolt on some easier shelves from the start of Cast of Chickenheads. There is also a smaller crux at about 3/4 height where it gets thin. 75' 5.8
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| 8 draws
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| rap the route from a 2-bolt anchor with a single 60 meter rope |
| 1998 - Robert & Myles Tafuto |
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