NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:30p on 06/30/22 - Temperature: 59.3 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 59.3 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.989 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 51 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Cornered (5.6)
Directions:  Walk left along the cliff and follow the alternate trail that takes you to the Geriatric Walls. Continue about 150', watching for a steep, dirty gully, adjacent to a large fallen pine. (At present, there is a fixed rope in this gully, which is used, to gain access to the traverse that weaves upward to the tops of “Rumble in the Jungle”, and adjacent routes.) To the left of the gully, note a blocky face, bounded on the left by a right facing corner, with an “off hands” crack. This is the start of the route.
Description: These two pitches can be combined, at the expense of visual contact between leader and second.
    Pitch 1: Ascend the corner, using lay away body positions, in combination with edging on the right hand face, protecting with large Camalots (#3 to #3.5). At the top of the corner, carefully mount the broken blocks to gain the belay tree, about 50' above the start.

    Pitch 2: Continue up the dirty slab above the belay tree, following and protecting in a shallow right facing corner (small to medium wired / camming units). Then angle right up an easy slab to belay at a pinch in a large crack beneath the overlap, about 60'.

    [Alternatively angle up and right, past a small horn, to join “Escapade” at the second bolt. Finish up this line, and rappel from the two-bolt anchor.]

Gear: Small to medium wires and camming units should suffice.
Descent: Traverse west (left), belayed, to the edge of the woods, and rapel from a 6" tree by an upright flake. It is 30m to the start.
History:  June 2010 - George Hurley, Mike Kahn


NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Savage Mountain Gear
International Mountain Equipment
Equinox Guiding Service LLC
the American Alpine Club
Friends Of The Ledges
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
International Mountain Climbing School
NorthEast Mountaineering
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Mooney Mountain Guides
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List