NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59a on 07/03/22 - Temperature: 60.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 60.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.817 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 65 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Relapped (5.10)
Directions:  Walk left along the cliff and follow the alternate trail that takes you to the Geriatric Walls. Continue about 150', watching for a steep, dirty gully, adjacent to a large fallen pine. (At present, there is a fixed rope in this gully, which is used, to gain access to the traverse that weaves upward to the tops of “Rumble in the Jungle”, and adjacent routes.) Ascend this gully to reach a narrow, vegetated, ledge. Belay from an 8" hardwood at the start of the climbers path that traverses east (right). Scamper over low angle broken blocks, to an 8" hardwood that stands at the base of a steep slab.
Description: unavailable
    Pitch 1: Climb the steep slab on good edges, passing three bolts at comfortable intervals. As the angle eases, continue carefully to a fourth bolt, to the base of the first overlap. Protect with a small wire or TCU in the clean, vertical crack. On tiptoe, clip the first bolt on the bulge above. Reach high to adequate handholds, and, with careful footwork, mantle to gain good footholds just below the hands. Rebalance, and clip the fifth bolt. Climb the short, easy slab to the base of the second overlap, again reaching high to make the clip. Lay away from a high sinker to gain good footholds just below the two-bolt anchor.

Gear: standard rack
Descent: Rappel 30 m to the start
History:  September 2010 - Mike Kahn, George Hurley


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