After being in the flatlands of East Texas for 10 days, it's so great to be back here in New England. To be able to go ice climbing, rock climbing, cycling, XC or downhill skiing - sometimes all in the same day - is just the best. I would find it very difficult to be somewhere else. except in blackfly season of course. This winter has been different than the past 2, but not in a bad way. We've had plenty of snow up in the mountains and notches where it matters, lots of cold temps early-on when we needed it to form the ice and now moderate temps so we can enjoy what we have. All good stuff right?
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Personally, I would rather climb in the high mountains. I have always abhorred the tremendous heat, the dirt-filled cracks, the ant-covered foul-smelling trees and bushes which cover the cliffs, the filth and noise of Camp 4 (the climbers' campground), and worst of all, the multitudes of tourists which abound during the weekends and summer months.
—Yvon Chouinard
Great early spring day on Standard Route
Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 5, 2010
Pretty much everything in the Valley is or will be toast pretty quickly. Frankenstein is still looking pretty good for now. Stuff in the sun is getting a little punky, but the fat stuff and the climbs in or partially in the shade should stay OK for a while. Mt Washington has a ton of snow and a lot of the ice climbs are now snow climbs. Beware of the avalanche danger. It looks as if nighttime temps will remain low for the next 3-4 days. That will guarantee the ice staying around another week, but beyond that who knows. The weather reports are predicting very warm daytime temps and a lot of sun through this weekend!
Huntington Ravine
lots of snow - beware avalanches
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
very good, slight slush
Dracula
still fat and many options
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
NEClimbs Store - Featured Product
Robert Frost's 2nd climbing DVD follows Dave Graham and a group of gifted and driven athletes as they travel along Europe's autoroute, in search of their next test-piece.
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Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.