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So we've certainly had our ups and downs with the early season ice so far. Of course this is not totally unusual, just somewhat annoying. We all get ready to climb ice, and it rains and warms up. However, all this rain is surely piping water into the system and that's a good thing. Check out this week's INSTANT ICE REPORT for my take on how things are looking. I think you'll be surprised.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For 27 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
January 31 - February 2 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
ERGONOMIC Ice Axe
After climbing for 15 seasons with the original Petzl ERGO ice tool, how does the new(ish) ERGONOMIC stack up?
The Coffin -
WI 4+
When it comes in this is a great climb that makes a superb alternative to Dracula. Broken up into 2 pitches, it provides a full-length route that goes to the top of the cliff.
All ice is dangerous. Grade 4 pillars are pumpy. Grade 5 pillars are pumpy and dangerous. Except for certain rare days of triple-high biorythms and favorable planetary alignments, grade 6 is beyond reach.
—Dougal McDonald
Anthony Cormier getting a little early season Standard Route.
Frankenstein, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective December 12, 2019
After the significant warmup (50+ degrees) and the full day of rain we got a few daze ago, I wasn't too surprised about how funky things looked on my travels today. And yet on the other hand, I was quite surprised as just how reasonable other things appeared. Needless to say overall Cathedral isn't IN, tho the North End is actually coming along, all of the Amphitheater at Frankenstein is OUT, the left face of Mt Willard is OUT and lots of other stuff generally looks funky. Yet Standard Route looked reasonable with 2 parties on it this morning and Dracula looked almost unchanged! If we can just hold on to some colder temps and dodge the rain for a bit, we'll be in very good shape. Unfortunately that may not be the case for the weekend, stay tuned...
Huntington Ravine
options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
P 1 good, p2 iffy, p3 water
Dracula
probably OK
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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The days of 36 frames in a film roll and no surety that you will actually get a good image are long gone. Digital cameras are all the rage, and even cell phone cameras can do a great job. Here's some tips on picking a good digital camera, if you decided to go in that direction.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
