Amazingly enough, through all of this warmth, much of the ice hung in. That is most certainly due to the very cold December. Many things formed fairly well, and even now we had some nights that were cold enough to help rebuild the climbs that were somewhat fat. A good example is Diagonal. The wall was almost clear after the last big rain, but started building again during a cold snap right afterward. Enough that it attracted the attention of Peter Doucette and Ryan Driscoll! I was on my way home from an early gym session Tuesday morning and just noticed that there was someone on the dike! Knowing full well what was going on, I rushed home and grabbed the big camera and took a series of pictures over the next hour.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Work Of The Devil -
Other
The route follows the general line of an existing rock climb, "The Devil Made Me Dog It". It was rated M7+/Man-2 by Jim and Eric McCallister who assisted in the FA and has attempted the route himself. The M7+ is on the 'New England Mixed' scale, aka. the Freddie Wilkinson scale and the Man scale is one suggested by Doug Madara. The NEM scale is capped at M7+ while the Man scale is open ended.
The climbing as a whole is not very esthetic or enjoyable; it is merely difficult.
—Yvon Chouinard
Peter Doucette on the pillar with Ryan Driscoll belaying.
Diagonal, Cathedral Ledge
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 15, 2026
Everything should be solid by Saturday, and the weekend should be great. As always after a thaw it's important to evaluate just how well the ice is attached to the rock and how much water is running. And also how frozen the turf still is. Diagonal was done on Tuesday, and pillar fell down on Thursday! I'm still predicting lots of ice in good shape for Ice Fest in early February. Stay tuned...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
Silas Rossi did it on 1/6... MIXED!
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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One Of Our Articles: Getting Your (Ice) Rack Together
Ice racks are personal, like fine cars and wives. Every climber's rack is different, and putting one together can be as easy or as complicated as you like. Here's a few tips on putting one together that will do most of what you'll need here in New England.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
